Life on rue Cherche-Midi

New Breton shirt with red Diwali necklace (a gift from Janet).

Life in the new quarter is beginning to take shape.  My cousin, Barb, has joined me for a week. She has visited Paris several times so we will not be visiting the larger museums. I have French classes this week with Isabelle and Barb likes to dance the tango. Yesterday, she visited Sacre Milonga Tango in the 4th arrondissement where she felt welcome and enjoyed a lot of dances. She came home with a couple of roses which are decorating our mantel. Milongas (tango gatherings) are held in every neighbourhood in Paris and are attended by people of all ages. They cost less than 10 euros and do not involve a bar scene.

Today, we visited Le Musée Maillol which is about a 6 minute walk from the apartment. Aristide Maillol was a Catalan sculptor, painter and tapestry-maker of the early 20th century. The museums houses paintings, sketches, life-size statues and tapestries by Maillol as well as a temporary exhibit of the history of Murano glass. There were glass objets dating from the early Renaissance period.

We meandered down towards the Seine and ate lunch at a small restaurant, Le Pré aux Clercs, on the corner of rue Bonaparte and rue Jacob. Hemingway used to eat there when he lived on rue Jacob. I had a white fish served with a chorizo sauce and risotto and Barb had duck magret with potatoes. With a glass of house wine each, our bill came to 45 euros. We tend to eat our mid-day meal out and eat lightly in the evening.

After lunch, we visited the Musée Eugène Delacroix on the rue Furstenburg. Delacroix, died in this house in 1863. You can follow the life of the Romantic painter through the rooms of his home and visit his garden and studio. Only the small paintings of Delacroix are located in this museum.  La Liberté Guidant le Peuple is in Louvre-Lens in Lens, Pas-de-Calais. The rue Jacob area is mostly small galleries and antiquarian bookshops.  I tried to take a picture of a letter addressed to Picasso but it really did not turn out. I am having trouble with clarity of my photos this trip.

We walked to the river and parted ways at the Pont Alexandre III. I walked home and Barb continued to explore. Being in Paris for a longer time means that there is no urgency to explore for I am certain to return.


  1. sounds so romantic and milongas like a great ay to spend sometime.

  2. Thanks for this -- just what I needed today. We'll be there at the end of May and thinking myself forward is a real treat. We go to the Musée Maillol every trip to Paris -- it's such a great scale for a morning's visit.
    Lovely to be able to picture your route so clearly. . . and I'm making a note of that restaurant!

  3. How can I not be enchanted with the idea of going to Paris for the tango, Maillol (whom I don't know,)Delacroix (whom I do,) all in one afternoon? You look completely appropriate and very fresh in your Breton stripes.


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